Tag Archives: food

Brown Butter Brown Sugar Cupcakes with Vanilla Bean Frosting

26 Mar

There is a fine line between being the sort of neighbor that people love, and the sort of neighbor that people hate.  When my parents’ moved into their current house, they took the place of an older couple who had been living in the neighborhood for the better part of twenty years.  My parents have been told, more than once, that the previous owners took it upon themselves to, every week, remind everyone in the neighborhood when it was the eve of garbage day, and that they just wanted to make sure everyone took their garbage and recycling to the curb.  This story is always relayed to my parents with the sort of bemusement that borders on teeth-gritting repression of irritation.  Every week.  They told us every week.

In my neighborhood, I fear I am becoming the sort of neighbor who is fast becoming a favorite of children, but perhaps not the favorite of parents.  What with the amount of baking and recipe testing I engage in, I tend to have a lot of baked goods left over at the end of my experimenting.  Sometimes, I don’t feel like eating cake for three days in a row (not always, but sometimes), so I pawn my freshly baked treats off on the people around me, including my neighbors and their children.  My handouts have, thus far, been greeted with open arms, but I sometimes wonder if, in a short time, I will begin to receive a greeting not unlike that of the previous owners of my parents’ house.  Oh.  More baked goods.  Again.  Yes.  The children certainly are excited.

For the record, if I had a neighbor who was bitten by the urge to create a cake that was spiked with the nutty tones of brown butter and the deep flavor of brown sugar, I certainly wouldn’t hide when I heard my doorbell ring.  And if that same neighbor was driven to top said cake with a creamy, buttery lid of vanilla bean-speckled frosting, well, I don’t think I’d be capable of doing anything other than starting a pot of coffee because, my friends, we’re going to be needing some reinforcements.

As for now, however, I am still solidly on the side of being positively greeted.  There are, of course, should the situation change, always my husband’s co-workers to receive my gifted baked goods.  Failing that (which, who are we kidding, is not a real possibility, since when was the last time you heard of co-workers turning down free treats?), there is always the staff of my son’s school.  Basically, I’ve got a long list of recipients lined up, so, should I ever find myself saddled with baked goods aplenty, I think my neighbors will be safe. Whether being safe means, to them, being plied with baked goods or not, we’ll just have to wait and see.

Last year: Garden Spaghetti in a Lemon Butter Sauce

Brown Butter Brown Sugar Cupcakes with Vanilla Bean Frosting Recipe    

1 stick unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 ¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons cake flour (5.5 ounces total)

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

2/3 cup light brown sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract

¾ cup milk, at room temperature

In a medium saucepan or skillet set over medium heat, melt the butter, then allow to cook, stirring frequently, until it is brown and nutty colored.  The butter will foam at first, then start to spatter, and then turn brown.  Remove the butter to a small bowl, then place the butter in the refrigerator or freezer, stirring every five minutes, to firm up slightly to room-temperature consistency.  You will want the butter to become creamy-textured, but not hard.  This process can take anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt, then set aside.

In a large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the lightly chilled butter and brown sugar together until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.  Beat in the eggs, one at a time, and then add the vanilla and beat for another minute or so until smooth and combined.

Mixing on low speed, beat in one third of the flour mixture, followed by half of the milk.  Beat in half of the remaining flour mixture, followed by the remainder of the milk mixture.  Add in the last of the flour mixture, then beat until just combined.  Be sure to stir the bottom of the bowl with a spatula or spoon to make sure there are no errant clumps remaining.

Divide the batter evenly among the 12 cupcake liners.  Bake on the middle rack for 15 to 20 minutes, until a cake tester or toothpick inserted into the middle of a cupcake comes out with just a few crumbs attached.  Cool the cupcakes in the tin for at least 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to finish cooling completely.

Frost the cupcakes when they are completely cooled.

Vanilla Bean Frosting

10 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 ¼ sticks), softened to room temperature

1 teaspoon milk or cream

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

pinch of salt

1 vanilla bean

1 ¼ cups powdered sugar

In a large bowl, or the bowl of a standing mixer, beat together the butter, milk or cream, vanilla extract, and salt.  Slit the vanilla bean in half lengthwise using a very small, sharp knife, then remove the seeds from the bean by scraping the knife lengthwise against the cut side of the bean, collecting the seeds on your knife as you scrape.  Scrape both halves of the vanilla bean, placing the beans in the butter mixture.

Beat the butter mixture until creamy, then add the powdered sugar and beat on medium-high speed until fully incorporated and very fluffy, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Makes enough frosting for 12 cupcakes.

Polenta Toast with Roasted Asparagus and Fried Eggs

22 Mar

Most people, I assume, remember the joy of being a child and getting to indulge in the rare treat of breakfast-dinner.  This, of course, was a dinner made up entirely of breakfast foods, from pancakes to scrambled eggs and toast, or, for the luckiest among us, waffles and fruit.  As an adult, I still love eating breakfast-dinner, only now, much to the disappointment of my younger self, my idea of breakfast-dinner seems to have reversed itself.  My preferred breakfasts are now decidedly more dinner-like, making my breakfast-dinners only slightly so.

The turning point for my love of a dinner-breakfast (it only seems right to reverse it while discussing how it came to be) was an absolutely delightful breakfast I had at a French place a few blocks away from my house.  The breakfast consisted of risotto cakes, topped with poached eggs, accompanied by a side of roasted butternut squash.  Aside from the eggs, it was not what I would have previously considered a particularly breakfasty breakfast, but I count it among one of the best breakfasts I have ever eaten (many times, for now I find myself unable to order anything else whenever I set foot in that restaurant during breakfast hours).  Something about that meal set my breakfast notions in a different direction, and now the place where my idea of breakfast meets my idea of dinner is all shadowy and muddled.  Basically, they’ve become one in the same.

It was in this shadowy place that I became a huge fan of making both breakfast-dinner and dinner-breakfast into a showcase for crisp squares of polenta that were topped with whatever I could find in the fridge, then finished with a fried or poached egg.  If I have spare greens in the fridge, I sauté them with a bit of garlic and throw them over the polenta.  Roasted summer squash is a fine addition here, and a lot can be said for simply sautéing some onions and bell peppers with a generous pinch of red pepper flakes, slathering the end product with a stream of hot sauce, and starting your day (or ending it) with a bit of a kick.  If you desire a simple accompaniment to a light meal, I am very fond of toasting individual slices of polenta, topped with a bit of Parmesan cheese, under the broiler.

Right now, I am loving the tender asparagus that has just started showing up at the market, and I am convinced that there are no better friends to that asparagus than crisp polenta squares and soft-cooked eggs.  Together, they make what currently stands as my favorite breakfast, my favorite lunch, and, yes, my favorite dinner.

Polenta Toast with Roasted Asparagus and Fried Eggs Recipe

Polenta Toast

Adapted from James McNair’s Breakfast

4 cups water

1 1/3 cups polenta

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Generously butter the sides and bottom of an 8.5” by 4.5” loaf pan, and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, bring the water to a rapid boil over high heat.  Pour the polenta into the boiling water in one continuous stream, stirring with a long-handled wooden spoon as you pour.  Turn the heat down to low, and stir, stir, stir the polenta until it is smooth, thick, and yields a lot of resistance against the spoon.  This should take between 15 and 20 minutes of continuous stirring, being always careful to keep the polenta at a low simmer so as not to allow roiling polenta bubbles to pop up and burn your stirring hand. When the polenta is soft and thick, remove from heat and stir in the salt, pepper, and butter.

Pour the cooked polenta into the prepared loaf pan, then tap the loaf pan gently on the counter to help settle the polenta.  Place a piece of plastic wrap over the top of the polenta, then place it in the refrigerator to firm up.  You could conceivably retrieve your polenta after 5 or 6 hours, but I think it is best to allow the polenta to cool in the refrigerator overnight.

When the polenta is completely cool, gently run a thin spatula or knife around the edges of the loaf to separate it from the pan, then invert the polenta loaf onto a cutting board.  If the polenta remains firmly stuck in the pan, submerge the bottom ¾ of the pan in a pool of warm water, and allow the pan to heat up a bit and help loosen the polenta.

Cut the polenta loaf into slices of your desired thickness.  In a medium skillet, heat a pat of butter over medium heat until it just starts to sizzle.  Add 3 or 4 polenta slices to pan at a time, making certain not to crowd them, and gently sauté on each side until lightly browned (about 3-5 minutes per side).

Top with whatever you desire.

Roasted Asparagus and Fried Eggs

1 pound of asparagus, large ends snapped off

2 tablespoons olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 large eggs

2 tablespoons water

Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

On a large baking sheet, combine asparagus, olive oil, salt, and pepper.  Using your hands, toss everything together until uniformly coated with olive oil, then arrange asparagus in a single layer.  Roast the asparagus in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, until the tips are crisp and browned.

Just before the asparagus has finished roasting, heat the butter in a medium to large skillet over medium-low heat.  When the butter just begins to sizzle, crack the eggs into the pan.  Cook the eggs until the whites begin to firm up but the yolks are still soft, then carefully pour the two tablespoons of water around the eggs and then very quickly place a lid firmly over the pan.  The eggs will sizzle and splatter for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the whites are completely cooked, but the yolks are still runny.  If you prefer a firmer egg, cook it a tad longer.

Place asparagus spears over slices of sauteed polenta toast, then top asparagus with a fried egg.  Add more salt and pepper to taste.

Serves 4, with extra polenta toast left over.

Chocolate Swirled Bread

19 Mar

Not to sound too dramatic about this, but I have a slight confession to make.  You know those deliciously sweet cakes and treats I’ve been sharing with you over the past few weeks?  Like this cake and these waffles and these cookies?  Purely out of curiosity, I made all of those treats with at least 1/3 less sugar (in some cases, even less) than each recipe called for.  And then I served those treats to people without telling them what I had done.  And not one person noticed.  Not one.  Not even I noticed, and, believe me, I tried.  Eyes squinted in concentration, methodically chewing my food and analyzing each bite as though I were a culinary Columbo, I failed to detect even a hint of missing sweetness.  In some cases, even though I had removed a good chunk of a recipe’s sugar, I still thought that a case could be made to take out even more of the sugar.  I know, right?  It just can’t be possible.

But it is, and there is no better example of this experiment, I believe, than this bread.  Yet another bread in only name (due to the fact that it delightfully toes the line between living as a bread and living as a cake), this is an absolutely wonderful treat with its chunks of bittersweet chocolate, hints of cinnamon, and delicate crumb.  Everything in this bread, from top to bottom, is perfectly sweetened.  A lid of light streusel topping is the perfect antidote to the moist bread beneath, and, with 1/3 of the sugar removed from both the bread and the topping, the crunchy streusel never propels the taste experience from “Oh, this is so delicious,” to “Ouch, call the dentist.”

I am telling you, I’ve totally been converted.  1/3 less sugar.  Do it.  Last week I made reduced sugar chocolate chip cookies and then gave them out to people and, I am telling you, not a single soul knew my secret.  The week before that I made a vegan dark chocolate zucchini cake with 1/3 less sugar and, again, no one was the wiser about the cake’s triple punch of secrets.  I almost feel as though I am getting away with something sinister, only, in reality, I think the opposite is actually true.  If no one misses the sugar, why not keep up with my experiment?  What’s the harm?  And, more importantly, if I am eating 1/3 less sugar with each slice of cake, does that logically mean that I am then able to nibble off a 1/3 more cake and suffer no ill effects?  These are important questions, and I intend to do my best to get to the bottom of them, 1/3 more dessert at a time.

Chocolate Swirled Bread

Adapted from Moosewood Restaurant Book of Desserts

2 large eggs

5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped into pea-sized and smaller pieces

2/3 cup buttermilk or sour milk

¼ cup vegetable oil

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

1/3 cup sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Streusel

2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350  degrees Fahrenheit.  Grease and flour an 8 ½” by 4 ½” loaf pan (Moosewood notes that a 9” by 5” loaf pan would also be all right, so I can only assume that it’s true).

Separate one of the eggs, placing the yolk in a large bowl and the white in a smaller bowl.  Add the chopped chocolate to the bowl with the egg white, mix to combine, then set aside.  To the bowl with the egg yolk, add the second egg, buttermilk, oil and vanilla.  Beat with a fork for at least 1 minute, until well blended.  In a separate bowl, sift together the dry ingredients and set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine all streusel ingredients.  Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut the butter into the other ingredients until the mixture turns crumbly, but not too finely textured.  Spread 1/3 of the streusel mixture over the bottom of the prepared loaf pan.  Combine the buttermilk mixture with the sifted dry ingredients and mix until just blended.  Fold the chocolate and egg white into the batter, being careful not to overmix everything and ruin the marbling effect of the chocolate.

Pour the batter into the loaf pan and top with the remaining streusel.  Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until the bread is firm and pulls away slightly from the sides of the pan.  Allow the bread to cool before removing from the pan.